
What a 7-day wine tour in France looks like
What a 7-day wine tour in France looks like
Nomi, who looks after our wine list, just got back from a 7-day wine trip across France. She joined Alex and Damiano from Tutto Wines on their recent trip to check out a few vineyards and meet wine makers Julie Ballagny, Jérôme Guichard, Alice Bouvot and Frederic Cossard.
“ The aim of the annual trip is to try the “En primeur” wines: wines from the previous vintage that are still in the barrel, sometime almost ready, sometimes still in fermentation. It’s such a privilage to be able to taste wines like this, from the barrel. They really give you an idea of the vintage. Even though 2016 was a difficult year in France and Europe for winemakers, all the wines that I tried still had something very good to say! Perhaps the volume isn’t there this year, but freshness, tension and acidity definitely is,” Nomi says.
On the first day, the team visited Julie Ballagny in Moulin à Vent in Beaujolais where they tasted a range of energetic and tasty wines. On the same day they visited Jerome Blanchard from Domaine Sauveterre in Macon. Jerome took over the Guy Blanchard vineyard in 2011. “His wines are pure and vivid. The Les Perrieres 2015 and Chevrot were just excellent.”
On day two, Frederic Costard took the crew around Domaine Chassoryney in St Romain, Burgundey, for an epic day of tasting. Wines included Vin De France Pinot Noir from Rotalier, Jura (made from a part of negoce), Vosne Romanée Les Champ Perdrix, Nuit St George Les Damodes, St Romain Clos du Cerisier and Batard Montrachet, finished off with a magnum of Bonnes Marus 2015 at lunch (paté en croute and tonnes of cheese).
After what sounds like a bit of a heavy night, the team visited Arbois in Jura, where Alice Bouvot makes wine under the name Domaine Octavin. “This place is very special. It’s so peaceful, and so are the vines. In the cellar, the 2016 are still working in there stainless steel: Trousseau Corvé Sous Curon, Poulsart, ULM but also a bit of negoce of gamay from Beaujolais, a lovely blend of Grenache and Colomba, and even a blend of Chardonnais, Grenache. With Alice there are no limits, her wines are delicate but bold. The wines are a bit like herself really!”
After Jura and the couple days on the road, the next stop is Loire. They visit Domaine La Graperie where Renaud Guettier again explains that 2016 wasn’t a great year - deers and rain destroyed the vineyard.
“ Being a winemaker means dealing with the bad years, working hard in a vineyard everyday to see a result in the vines in two years time - that is, if everything goes according to plan. It’s taking risk and accepting what natures gives you, and use it well.”
At night, dinner is with Jean Pierre Robinot and his wife Noella. They take a journey through the different vintages and cuvee of Jean Pierre Robinot, including Regard 2002, Concerto 20011 and Iris 2004, and the following day is spent in his cellar.
The trip finished at Les Penitentes and Les Anonymes in Anger, and La Dive Bouteille in Saumur the day after. “You’re always looking for something new and delicious, that hidden gem. Or as I would say, looking for perpetual beauty, in humans, in your glass, in your plate. La vie quoi!”
Domaine De Chassorney, Frederic Cossard
Frederic Cossard's en primeur wines
*Julie Ballagny's vineyard *
Jérôme Guichard
Alice Bouvot's Domaine Octavin